Dry Skin vs. Dehydrated Skin: What’s the Difference?

But the reason that your oily skin still feels tight when it’s dehydrated? “Oil can help prevent further water loss, but it doesn’t add hydration,” Dr. Garshick explains. That’s why dry skin tends to appear rough, cracked, and flaky; meanwhile, dehydrated skin has that parched, chapped sensation you’d normally associate with dryness—plus an unexpected sheen.

3. Dry skin will still be plump and elastic.

Gently pinch the skin on the back of your hand, hold it for three seconds, then let go. Normally, “it should immediately snap back to its original position, even if you have dry skin,” Dr. Castilla says. However, if that “bounce back” effect is noticeably slower, it could be a more general indication that you’re dehydrated—which, as SELF previously reported, could suggest the skin on your face is lacking moisture, too.

That’s because water, not sebum, is what gives skin its elasticity and plumpness, according to Dr. Castilla. Whereas “oil is a lubricant that affects texture”—meaning it helps prevent roughness and flakiness, but it won’t do much for elasticity. As a word of caution, though, both derms caveat that the pinch test is most useful for spotting moderate to severe dehydration. (For milder cases, it’s more helpful to check the other signs covered in this article.)

4. Dehydrated skin can make fine lines more noticeable.

According to Dr. Castilla another thing that can happen when your skin loses elasticity is that fine lines (particularly around the eyes) become more defined. Without the plumpness and natural volume that water provides, the skin can appear thinner, she explains, making those creases pop a little more than usual.

The good news, though, is that these dehydration-related lines (unlike deeper wrinkles from aging) should go away once you replenish moisture, whether by drinking more water, say, or using the right topical products, Dr. Castilla says. Speaking of which…

5. Dehydrated skin will benefit from water-attracting ingredients, while dry skin needs thick ones.

For the most part, plenty of moisturizers and serums out there can address both concerns (more on that later). However, Dr. Garshick points out that certain ingredients work better for dry skin vs. dehydrated skin. For instance, “treating dehydrated skin with heavy, oil-based products may not be as effective,” she says. It’s not that they’ll make things worse; it’s just that for dehydration specifically, water retention should be the goal—so it makes more sense to lean on water-attracting ingredients (a.k.a. humectants) such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

For dry skin, though, those lightweight formulas usually aren’t enough to replenish lost oils. “Hydration is helpful, but sealing moisture in is key for dryness,” Dr. Garshick adds. In this case, you’d want thicker formulas containing emollients (which soften and smooth) and occlusives (to lock in moisture). Ingredients to look out for include ceramides, shea butter, and squalane.

If you happen to be cursed with the double whammy of dryness and dehydration (or just can’t tell which one’s causing you trouble), layering all three—humectants, emollients, and occlusives—can work in tandem to pull in water and lock in oils.

No matter what’s behind that tight, chapped feeling, though, “it’s important to cut back on harsh actives and focus on being gentle with your skin,” Dr. Castilla says. After all, there’s no point in loading up on the best moisturizers if you’re sabotaging your efforts with potentially stripping formulas.